5 articles
Coastal trapped waves carry sea level, temperature and nutrient signals thousands of kilometres along coastlines — the ocean's long-distance phone line.
Dr. Lena Fischer ·
Significant wave height, swell period, direction, water temperature — learn to decode ocean buoy reports like a waterman and plan safer, better days on the sea.
Tom Okafor ·
Rip currents are the surf zone's return plumbing — narrow, fast rivers of seawater leaving the beach. The physics behind them, and how to get out of one.
Dr. Lena Fischer ·
Swell height, period and direction decide whether your dive happens. A plain-English guide to reading wave forecasts like a diver, not a surfer.
Tom Okafor ·
Wave energy is the architect of rocky reefs. How drag, shear and exposure gradients sort species, sculpt kelp and decide where a forest can stand.
Dr. Lena Fischer ·